The Alpicool Fridge F1 means low voltage for your car battery, it is eating into your truck battery and it shuts itself down so as not to deplete your battery. It has 3 settings for voltage shut off. Please set it to H1 car battery protection mode and full charge your car battery.
What is the alpicool cooler f1 code?
Battery protection stops the compressor and gives a F1 on the display if the voltage drops too low.
F1 error on your fridge?
The error codes for the refrigerator
F1, F2. F3, F4, F5, F6, F7, F8，F9，Fr, Eh
The sensor error
Please call the service
E1, E2, E6, E9
The fan error
Ice maker error
Ec,Ed, Fd, Rd, Hd
Why doi keep receiving the f1 code?
This is for everyone who uses the 12volt power cord provided with the Alpicool unit, and is experiencing F1 codes.
Bear with me, electrical stuff can get a bit complicated.
Voltage-drop in the Alpicool's original power cord and cigarette-lighter male connector may be a part of the problem. On the 12 volt power cord's outer insulation, the printed information appears to say the cord is #16 gauge, which is small for a 12 volt application like this.
And ... if there is a significant drop in the voltage being provided to the cigarette-lighter style power point in your vehicle, that's part of the problem, too. In a 12 volt system, voltage-drop is a problem, and this is why heavy-gauge wires must be used.
Your batteries might still have plenty of charge, and you can still get an F1 code. Using my T36 plugged into a cigarette-lighter type of outlet in my van, the voltage reading on the T36's display panel is usually about 0.4-0.8v lower than what's available at the battery terminals of my van's 220 amp-hour battery bank.
Keep in mind that it is the voltage available right where the power cord plugs into the refrigerator, that the unit probably uses to decide whether or not to trigger an F1 code.
When the Alpicool first starts up a cooling cycle, the increased current draw results in an even greater voltage drop, for a short time. That short time is the most likely time an F1 code would appear.
Using a pretty good voltmeter, I found that much of this voltage drop happens in the #16 connector cord that is provided with the Alpicool T36, and the cigarette-lighter male connector on the end of that cord.
The long length of this cord is probably part of the voltage drop. The rest of the voltage drop, about 0.2v is happening in other areas of my electrical system, which consists of 4 large AGM batteries charged by a grid-powered charger.
The considerable voltage drop in the Alpicool's connector cord, and within the cigarette-lighter type of connection, could trigger an F1 code, even when your battery bank's voltage is not low enough to trigger that. This is especially true during the first few seconds after the Alpicool starts up.
Using the Alpicool's "L" setting for the low-battery-voltage cutoff, might be a "have to" for many people who use the original 12 volt cord that plugs into a cigarette-lighter socket. To solve the voltage-drop problem with the Alpicool's 12v power cord, I cut the cord (sure hated to do that), about 6" from the refrigerator end, firmly attached a #12 cord to that short end, and wired the other end of the #12 cord to the nearest 12volt source I could find .. that has a solid connection to the battery bank. I did this keeping the new #12 cord as short as possible.
Keep in mind that cutting the original Alpicool cord might cause a customer service problem if the Alpicool fails in any way, and you have to return it.
But, I do believe that the original Alpicool cord should be #12 or #10 wire instead of the lighter gauge wire that it is. This is especially true since the unit does draw about 9amps for a short while after startup.
For those of us who use a 12 volt system to power the Alpicool, this is a reminder that power-cord connections have to be good, and wires have to be HEAVY GAUGE.
I know this is a bit long, but having this information might help you avoid a few problems with an otherwise nice refrigerator. great refrigerator so far, best regard.